Posted 4 years 284 days ago ago by ScottSkola 0 Comments
Back before DIY was a term, most mechanics couldn’t afford Snap-On specialty tools--if any existed that could do the job--that is. So, they were known to get a little creative.
Rolls Royce 250 series: This handy pivoting “T” wrench made removing the top nut on a C20 fuel control a breeze. Especially on the #1 engine of a BO105. The wrench is a concoction of a cut-off ¼” ignition wrench box-end, an MS20668 cable fork end fitting, and a couple old Bell 206 door latch rods. Cut the latch rods to make the “T” and weld them together along with the cable end fitting to fabricate the wrench. After cutting the ignition wrench, carefully drill a #40 hole in the remaining shank of the wrench. Insert box-end into cable fitting and rivet together ensuring the box-end still pivots. Reshape overall wrench to fit into the tightest of places! [Submitted by Rw]
Now…what to do with the other half of the ignition wrench? Glad you asked.
Rolls Royce 250 series: Adjusting the idle screw on several different 250 series engines while running could be a bit challenging at times. Take the remaining open-end portion of the ¼” ignition wrench from above and trim shank to 1 ¼” total length. Drill a #40 hole as close to the wrench end as shown. Add a second hole if you wish to upgrade it to an adjustable deluxe model. Procure a 7” to 8” portion of 1/16” piano hinge rod and bond/swage an MS20667 cable eye end to one side. Fill a small syringe with 3M 2216 epoxy adhesive or the old stand-by, Metal Set, and insert other end of piano hinge rod into syringe until dry. Once released from syringe, rivet open-end wrench to cable eye end ensuring open-end pivots. Bingo, idle adjustment tool. You may also need to grind off some material to allow open-end to clear fuel control housing. [Submitted by Rw]
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